Wednesday, March 19, 2014

The Rundu Catalyst Youth Group

The Rundu Catalyst Youth Group is the group of youth that I am currently spending most of my time with. This group is a branch of the national group OYO, Ombetja Yehinga Organisation who's purpose is to reach out to the youth of Namibia through drama's, song and dance. The messages shared by the OYO groups focus on issues that youth in Namibia are facing, teenage pregnancy, HIV/Aids, sugar daddies, baby dumping, peer pressure and many others. I was fortunate enough to join the Rundu group on their week long tour to the southern Namibian tour of Mariental where they spent the week performing for different schools and community members in the area.

Not only did it make me fall more in love with the kids, but it gave me the information needed to help the group continue performing and working together here in Rundu. I spend every day with this group, and although sometimes they make me want to rip my hair out, I love them... and one day, when I leave the land of the brave, saying goodbye to these youth, will be the hardest part.


The entire group
At the school in Aranos
 
The ladies

The boys... clearly not gentlemen...

Outside Mariental... which way should we go?

During a show... We Believe in A, B, & C; Abstain, Be Faithful and Condomize... that last part always makes the learners laugh.

Doing what I do best, giving tests to the learners and holding the snapbacks.

These little girls were a big fan of the white lady.

 

Playing around after the show, waiting for the learners to return their tests.


Performing in the rain

They love to dance

Performing before dinner

Viewers from afar.

Performing in Aranos

 
Cassie hanging himself after he is infected with HIV... it has its intense moments
 

They will perform anywhere they can get an audience, even if that audience is sitting in a fallen tree

Hanging out with my two favorite guys!

Me and Beja, the leader of the group
 
Looks kinda like home

The sky has to be bigger in Africa...

A beautiful sunset on our last night of the tour.

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Sirumbu...

In Rukwangali, Sirumbu is the word for "White Person" it is my "tribe". When you learn about Namibia, one of the first things we talk about are the different tribes, there are very many in Namibia, over 7 in the Kavango Region alone. My tribe, is white.

Before I joined Peace Corps I knew, mostly based on logic but also through communications with Peace Corps that my skin color would make me noticeable anywhere in the world, as a foreigner. When I got placed in Namibia I knew that my skin color would just be a part of my service. Namibia, as I have written about in earlier posts, is a post apartheid country. Apartheid is a policy or system of segregation or discrimination on grounds of race. Although apartheid came from South Africa, until 1990 Namibia was South West Africa, before this it was colonized by the Germans, for Namibia Apartheid was also the system. There have been white people in Namibia for a very long time, but thanks to Apartheid the relationship between Black Africans and white people, whether African of European has not always been pleasant, and some of these tensions still exist, simply because Namibia is such a young country with apartheid being a recent history.

Examples of apartheid in Namibia are still seen daily. Many white Africans are part of a higher wealth class, which contributes to Namibia having the highest wealth inequality in the world. Whites tend to live in the capital city of Windhoek or they own large farms in the south of the country. Many were not raised with black friends in their schools or communities so friendships between white and black Namibians are not very common. Black people were only allowed to buy homes in certain areas, these are called "locations". Every city, town and most villages have a location. This was the only area that black people could live before independence, and they tend to be more run down areas, with perceived high crime rates.

In the Kavango Region you wont see many white people. There are people from the Colored or Baster tribes, they are Afrikaans speaking but do not identify as White, and they are very few. This makes me and other Peace Corps Volunteers stand out even more. People notice me everywhere especially because I walk everywhere, which most white people don't do, I hang out with Black Namibians, which most white people don't do, and I am learning the local language which, again, most white people don't do.

I get a lot of positive attention because of my appearance, and a lot of unwanted attention. Children love yelling "hello" at me, to which I respond "hello, how are you" and they say very quickly and shyly "fine". When I great an elderly person by saying "morokeni None" they get very excited that I am speaking to them, and they spend the next few minutes speaking to me in Rukwangali... until they learn that my vocabulary is very small... then they laugh and continue walking. Many of the youth know me so I am always being greeted on my walks home or when I am in town, and many business people are starting to get to know me, so they are always excited to talk about their business with me. Many of my friends refer to me as "Sirumbu setu" which is "our Sirumbu", it has become a term of endearment for many here that know me and love me, this is probably my favorite use of Sirumbu. The most amusing thing that happens to me is when someone that I am with calls their family, usually their mother or father and then hands me the phone. I have to talk to them to prove that their child or friend actually knows the white person... this happens more than you would think...

Part of my role here is to help break down walls between black and white people, so I greet everyone I see, even if they don't respond. However, it seems that my friendly demeanor has attracted a good deal of unwanted attention. I average 3 marriage proposals/girlfriend requests a week. At first it was sorta flattering but now, it's just annoying. When I was about 16 I was with my family in Montana and I found a ring in an antique shop with a turquoise stone in it, the stone is my favorite, I have worn it since I found it, and it fits best on my ring finger... men here always ask me what the ring is for. Mostly I tell them it is just for me, but sometimes I tell them I am married, or my boyfriend in the states gave it to me (yes, I have a fictional boyfriend in America)... 100% of the time the response it, you need a Namibian boyfriend... I always just laugh awkwardly... I mean, how do you respond to that. I have gotten marriage proposals and I love you from police officers, government employees, workers on the side of the street... the list goes on. It's just not flattering anymore, you wont win a girls heart by telling her that you want to marry her cause she is white... also it's advised to not propose marriage to strangers.

They think I have some golden ticket for them to come back to America with me... that is the most common thing I hear... "take me back to America when you go", my response... I'll just stuff you in my luggage... they laugh, I worry that they think I am serious.

I have never in my life been so aware of my race... I guess that's a privilege of being white in America. Having this experience of being aware of my race and having it be my identifier is something that not many white people will truly experience in their life, it has certainly been eye-opening, and has contributed significantly to how I carry myself and interact with others. The down side of being known by everyone, even if you have never met them is the inability to turn off. We were warned about this in training but it is absolutely true. Unless I am home, behind closed doors, I am being observed, people are watching to see what the Sirumbu does... and everybody needs to be able to turn off somedays.

When I start to get really comfortable and forget that I am a tall, blonde, white lady living in Sub Saharan Africa something always happens that makes me very much aware that I am a Sirumbu.

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

A re-cap from the first few months at site

Once Peace Corps volunteers swear in and take our Oath of Office we scatter across the country to our new homes. We then spend the next few months doing what Peace Corps calls "Phase 2" activities... PCV's refer to this lovely few months, as Phase 2. Teachers observe classes being taught, work in the library or computer lab if their school has one, and doing anything and everything they can to feel productive. CED Volunteers usually start working in their offices, or agencies helping with small projects as a way to get a better understanding of their organization, but the bottom line is, we are not allowed to teach or start projects or travel out of our general area, the focus of this time is getting to know the new culture better. This is a very boring time for most PCV's being that we get here and are pretty gung-ho about starting projects, and then we spend the first 6 months sitting, and listening, and sitting... and listening.

About 3 months after we get to site,  we go to what is called re-connect. This is a great time for us to all get back together, fill each other in on what is happening at site, spend some time together since we haven't been able to see eachother for a bit... this is also when we get more training and finally the thumbs up to start officially working.

It has over the years become a Peace Corps tradition to go to the coastal town Swakopmund and spend a week enjoying an early Christmas holiday in the sun and sand. Swakopmund is like a little slice of Europe in Sub-Saharan Africa. It is a very touristy town, and therefore has a lot to offer the PCV on holiday. Group 38's trip was pretty wonderful, full of delicious food including Mexican at "3 Namigos", loads of Pizza, Italian at "Neopolitanos" and endless amounts of seafood... I even ate some Sushi. We spent everyday at the beach, playing beach football, crashing in the waves and catching some sun. We hiked the dunes, some people went sand boarding, or the aquarium... we enjoyed everything that Swakopmund has to offer.

All of us enjoying a "sundowner" on the beach in Swakopmund... A sundowner is when you drink a beer and watch the sunset... didn't know that till I moved here.
 
Sunset over the Atlantic at Swakopmund
 

Derek and I at the beach... looking adorable as always.

Julia and I at the Sundowner

Alex and I enjoying our beers on the beach

 I drank so much coffee at the best coffee shop in Swakopmund, Slow Town
 
Dolphins playing by the coast... most of the coast looks like South Beach (I have never been to South Beach but that's what people kept saying...)

Otters playing on the rocks at the Mole

 

 
Weaver birds in their nests... my favorite bird in Namibia.

 

Ali, Derek and I at the coast

 
After a wonderful week in Swakopmund was over, I headed back north to Rundu for my first Christmas away from home. The best thing about being in Peace Corps is that we are not here alone, in fact there are over 100 PCVs currently in Namibia. This means that we never have to spend holidays alone, and we are all going through the same emotions of homesickness and missing our traditions, so we are able to share those with one another and home seems not so far away.
 
The holidays were pretty hard for me, and there were a few times where I wished that I could just close my eyes and wake up at home but no matter how many times I tried it didn't work. I missed the snow, and my dogs, Christmas parties with friends, and Christmas morning with my mom, eating orange rolls around the tree and drinking coffee before we open presents... mostly I just missed my mom. Thankfully we now live in and age of technology, so she was only a facetime away. I was fortunate enough to have a house full of people for the holiday, we were able to keep eachother company, and we got in some good games of risk and monopoly. I am also very lucky to have wonderful Namibian friends which made home seem less far away this holiday season.
 
The Christmas package sent from home, full of wonderful, wonderful Christmas goodies!

Playing in the rain on Christmas day, we didn't have a white Christmas we had a wet Christmas... almost the same thing, right?

PUDDLE JUMPING!!!
 
New Years was spent in Otjiwarango with friends, and then some time in Windhoek for the Diversity Committee meeting. After almost 6 weeks of traveling, eating, drinking and spending time with Americans, the holiday has officially come to a close. I am now back in Rundu, in my office working on programs and planning for the new year, my first official year as a Peace Corps Volunteer. As usual I have loads of ideas and a lot of work to do... but, if I learned anything during Phase 2, it's that Namibia has it's own agenda. People here work on their own schedule and somehow things just end up happening and working out. If I am going to be successful at this I need to learn to go with the flow, something that I have never been able to do successfully, but here goes.
 
As a very wise old man at a bar told me one day, "I am not going to change Africa, Africa is going to change me". I guess there is only one way to find out....
 

   

A Glimpse of Life in the Kavango Region

Sitengi at the Rundu Open Market
 
 
Fat Cakes... these are a Namibian staple. They are kind of like a donut without a hole, but not really.

 
A Tate making a spear at the Open Market

 
The streets of Rundu

 
Afternoon at the Kahemu Open Market

 



Just some adorable kids playing... ya know, nothing out of the ordinary...
 
 
The pictures below are the little gymnasts that play outside of my house... if Namibia had a gymnastics team, these kids would take the gold.





 
Sooo adorable, they love when I ask to take pictures of them, cause it means they get chocolate...
 
Embo Lyange moRundu
(My house in Rundu)
 
 

 
 

Monday, October 21, 2013

The ups & downs of adjusting

When Peace Corps Volunteers are in training, they spend a lot of time talking to us about “the adjustment”... the daily rollercoaster that we will go through as we get to know our new job, community, housing, neighbors, and ultimately , and yourself your limits. It feels like being on a rollercoaster, that is super old and unstable, yet awesome. You never know when the car is going to fly off the track, but for the most part it's pretty great, and the rush is remains unmatched by any other ride in the theme park that is Peace Corps.

The first week you are super excited! I got to my new house in Rundu, and after traveling all day I was so tired all I wanted to do was sleep... So I moved my bed, washed a few walls (the joys of living in a house that has been occupied by boys for years), hung my mosquito net and went to bed.... I was really hoping to get some Parks and Rec in but, my computer crashed that night... so that didn't happen. I woke up the next morning and went to breakfast with Gio, the best 1-week roommate I have ever had, and I met some PCV's. Meeting PCV's who have been in country a while feels like the first day of school, and I am a freshman all over again... good thing most of the PCV's I have met are really great! Nothing like having to fit into a new social group, especially because for the next 2 years, they are the ones who will help you through the ups and downs, so having them around is really important.

The following week I started work at my new office in the Rundu Youth Center. I was so excited for my posting, I am doing exactly what I have always wanted to do, develop programs for youth, focusing on pressing social issues, unemployment, HIV/AIDS and business training. This is why I moved 9,181 miles away from home, I was stoked! The first morning we had a staff meeting, I introduced myself in my best Rukwangali, remembered no names of my co-workers from the meeting, and then started building relationships with the group of people that will become my closest friends while I am here.

Here's the thing about being a new PCV, we are supposed to spend the first few months at site observing. This is a great structure, and it really is important to learn our new community and places of employment in and out so that we can make as big of an impact over the next 2 years... the downfall... it's boring, really, really, boring. Our first week some volunteers who had been living in Rundu for 2 years took us around to meet important people in our community, and start building relationships with the town council, police commissioner, doctors, etc. in short, I have met a lot of people, it's super overwhelming, but necessary.

My second week my boss told me that we were going to be going on a trip to take a group of youth from the San community called Omega to Windhoek (the capital) and Ondera Farms so that they could see more of Namibia and get some hands on training, so that they could use grant money they received appropriately. Turns out this was a 2 week long lesson is lowering expectations. We were supposed to leave on Sunday, we left the following Thursday, Africa time and June time don't really see eye to eye... this so far is my greatest challenge. We left to Windhoek, which ended up being really fun, I was able to buy a new computer and hang out with other PCV's who happened to be in Windhoek at the same time. Windhoek also had its challenges, mostly organization wise, but everything came together in the end and it was a fun few days.

We left to Ondera Farms Monday, which is in the North, I had no idea how long we were going to stay but flexibility is key around here... I have started doing Yoga to help with this... We got to the farm to find no bedding, which of course, I didn't bring any, no stove, no boss, and no cell phone network... this proved problematic later. Thankfully I brought a big towel, turns out towels can also be pillows... good thing Namibia is hot and I didn't need a blanket. Not having a stove was great because the girls taught me how to build a fire and cook outside, which is great because I didn't posses this skill before this trip. No network... we will talk about that later.

The trip had it's ups and downs, and in order to keep this blog professional I wont get into specific details. The farm had its positive moments, when we were on the farm I saw that they were growing watermelon, while we were in Windhoek the head of the Youth Center there taught the youth a song that involved watermelon, but some of them had never tasted watermelon. I asked the farm supervisor if we could have one to taste after dinner, and he said that was perfectly fine, so we shared a watermelon after dinner. I was able to start connecting to the youth and start talking to them about their community and what they hoped to see it grow into one day.

As far as the downs...Alcohol tends to be a problem in Namibia, and although it is accepted, it bothers me greatly, but the biggest most upsetting issue that I am dealing with is men treating me like I moved to Namibia for their pleasure. One day on the farm, while dealing with a drunk adult, and another that didn't want to be there I was already reaching my limit, when one of the men who runs the farm approached me, in the dark about coming to Rundu and giving a workshop on farming. During our conversation that morning, the questions got uncomfortable, but I held my friendly demeanor, trying not to assume his intentions. While holding my arm he continued asking me questions that grew more inappropriate with time, like if I have a roommate, where will she stay when he comes, do I share a room with my roommate, then he actually said to me, “I have never had a white woman before...” as most of you can imagine, I damn near lost my mind.

The whole day and stress from the trip continued to build and I found myself sobbing behind the barn, in the dark, unable to call or text anyone. The little things that we think would not affect us, like alcoholism, isolation and jackass men, broke me down... maybe it's because this all took place in one day with a lot of build up, or maybe I just hit my maximum... all I could do was go into the house, write it all in my journal and cry myself to sleep into my towel. I woke up the next morning, and had a wonderful day.... the ups and downs will give you whiplash if you aren't prepared.

The hardest part is the realization and acceptance that this is after all, what I signed up for.

I got pretty lucky with my assignment, my office has wifi and air conditioning, I have a nice two bedroom flat with a great roommate, I have running water and electricity and Rundu is a small town but is has everything that I could ever need. Living in town is often seen as easier because goats don't run through my house, and I can turn my fan on at night making it much easier to sleep, however the downs are things like having to buy electricity, people are always trying to get into my house through my burglar bars, and I get to walk 45 minutes to work everyday. It is not uncommon to feel isolated in a town, because there are so many people, where do you start. But, I have been lucky with great co workers who take me to the river, and church and welcome me into their families. They are so excited that I want to learn Rukwangali that they SMS (text) me all day in the language. They truly care about me and my well-being, I never feel unsafe.

They teach us in training that no matter how happy we are in our new life, there are always little things that happen that make us feel like the car is about to fly off the rails and make you want to give up and go home. I guess without the ups and downs I would come home the same exact person I was when I left home, which is not what I want at all... character building is all part of it, and I am sure that I will change more than I am able to change Namibia, and the ups and downs will happen less and less.... this next two years just wouldn't be the same without the challenges of adjusting.


Other lessons learned:
  • Always carry a camera, I missed some beautiful photo opportunities on the farm by not having a camera. That is also why there are no pictures on this blog.
  • Always carry a blanket, it probably makes a better pillow than a towel.
  • Continue to journal, it's a good outlet.
  • Lower expectations, and don't take things so personally. For example: a few of my co-workers were calling me fat, not in a mean way, more in a matter of fact way, after a few days of this I told them that in my culture when you call someone fat you are also saying they are ugly... they were instantly apologetic and reassuring that I am not ugly, and it's not bad that I am not skinny.
Namlish Lesson:
  • Footing = Walking ie: did you foot today?
  • Having is used differently ie: are you having a pen?
  • Now means later, now now means now
  • I'm coming, often used in place of I'm going, and when used correctly, it means in about 10 minutes